Friday, March 4, 2011

Passing Through the Past (Or, Why Today Was One of the Highlights So Far)

I know, I know...I haven't updated for awhile. But that's because I haven't been doing anything you would be interested in! I'm sure you don't want to hear about my trips to the Writers Museum and the James Joyce Center, or the short story readings I attended at the Dublin Writers Center...really, none of that was very entertaining.

But I'm updating now because today has been one of the coolest things I've seen so far! My Early Irish History class took a day trip to Bru na Boinne, the Boyne Valley, to visit the prehistoric sites of Newgrange and Tara.

We have been learning about these areas in class for a few weeks now, and all of the buildup had me really excited to see the sites in person. Taking this history class has reawakened a passion I had when I was young for archaeology. We've been studying things that used to fascinate me, and that interest has been rekindled the more I've learned. I almost felt lik I was going to meet a celebrity when we walked up to Newgrange. I apologize for the history lesson that's about to follow, but this trip really excited me, and it's more meaningful if you know what you're looking at!
Newgrange

Newgrange is a burial tomb built in the Neolithic era of prehistory(3100-2900 BCE, predating the pyramids and Stonehenge by 500-1,000 years) . It is called a passage tomb because inside there is a long stone passage that splits off into three chambers that housed the cremated remains of the dead. Stones on the inside and outside are adorned with some of the most fantastic examples of Neolithic rock art in Europe, and there is a roof box over the entrance that aligns with the winter solstice, indicating some kind of religious significance.

The white stones on the outside of the tomb are not original; they were restored when the site was excavated in the 60s and 70s. However, the inside of the tomb has remained completely intact since it was built. We weren't allowed to take photos inside, but it was one of the coolest experiences of my life. The inner passage was long and narrow; a lot of people had to duck to walk inside, but it opened up into a large inner chamber that was about 6 meters high. It seemed impossible that people could have built such an enormous structure--the stones they used all had to be brought many kilometers and shaped into the correct form. Being inside Newgrange was surreal and wonderful--I couldn't believe I was touching stone that people had touched over 5,000 years before me. Here are a few more pictures of the outside:
The famous entrance stone covered in Neolithic rock art. The triple spiral is characteristic of Newgrange.

Hannah outside of Newgrange

More rock art on one of the kerbstones surrounding the mound.

More rock art

Newgrange surrounded by a circle of standing stones that were added about 1,000 years after it was built. 

After Newgrange we headed to the Hill of Tara, the traditional seat of the High Kings of Ireland. Although there wasn't much to see here besides some remaining ditches and mounds, it was still interesting. Tara holds an important place in the Irish psyche and has many myths and legends associated with it. Here are some pictures!
The Mound of the Hostages, where hundreds of cremations were discovered.
Hannah outside the entrance to the Mound of Hostages
 There's a stone at Tara and if the true king of Ireland hugs it, is is said to emit a noise, so of course we all tried.




A rag tree where people say a wish or a prayer and tie something on the branches.

An area known as the "Banqueting Hall," but that is actually a ceremonial cursus or pathway. 
I've said I was sick of walking around looking at history, but this was different. Today was more than staring at a kind of old building in Dublin where something kind of famous happened. This was real history.

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